Purpose: Mass produced
gem settings come in standard sizes. If a gem won't fit
in a standard setting, one needs to be custom made. This
involves much more labor and therefore expense.
Bear
this in mind when purchasing a gem, or selecting a cut
for a gem. There are circumstances where the value of
a stone makes it worth cutting for maximum yield, then
later paying for a custom made setting. In other circumstances,
the cost of a custom setting isn't justified by the value
of the gemstone.
Sizes: A gem does
not need to be the precise size of the setting. A skilled
metal smith can modify a setting to accommodate a wide
variety of gem sizes.
Any round gem can be put in a standard
setting. On other shapes there are a variety of factors
to be considered. As a general rule, gems under one carat
can be within .1 mm of the setting size. Over one carat,
a .2 mm variance can usually be accommodated and sometimes
more.
Weights: The weights
given are for diamonds cut to ideal proportions. Colored
stones are usually cut with greater volume than diamonds,
hence they will weigh more than the chart sizes.
The
density of the material will also affect the weight.
For example a 6.5 mm round diamond, sapphire and opal,
all cut in the same proportions will all weigh different.
The diamond, (with a specific gravity of 3.52,) will
weigh 1 carat. A sapphire, (specific gravity 4,) will
weigh 1.14 carats. The opal, (specific gravity 2.15)
will only weigh .61 carats.
There are subtle variations
to this list. For example, some list a .25 carat diamond
as measuring 4.1 mm. The point is not to take these figures
too literally, but to use them as a starting point for
estimating weights. |
Diamond and Simulant Comparison Chart
| Properties |
GGG |
YAG |
Synthetic Spinel* |
White Sapphires |
White Topaz |
Glass |
| RI |
1.970 - 2.03 |
1.823 - 1.843 |
1.720 - 1.740 |
1.757 - 1.779 |
1.609 - 1.637 |
1.40 - 1.70 |
| Birefringence |
None |
None |
None |
.008 - .010 |
.008 - .010 |
None |
| Dispersion |
.038 - .045 |
.028 |
.020 |
.018 |
.014 |
.009 - .098 |
| Optic Character |
Isotropic |
Isotropic |
Isotropic |
Uniaxial - |
Biaxial + |
Amorphous |
| Pleochroism |
None |
None |
None |
None if totally colorless |
None if totally colorless |
None |
Read
Through |
Moderate |
Strong |
Strong |
Strong |
Strong |
Strong |
| Luster |
Vitreous to subadamantine |
Vitreous to subadamantine |
Vitreous to subadamantine |
Vitreous to subadamantine |
Vitreous |
Vitreous |
| SG |
7.01 - 7.15 |
4.50 - 4.60 |
3.52 - 3.67 |
3.90 - 4.10 |
3.49 - 3.57 |
2.30 - 4.50 |
| Hardness |
6.5 - 7 |
8.25 - 8.5 |
7.5 - 8 |
9 |
8 |
5 - 6 |
| Cleavage |
None |
None |
None |
None |
Perfect, 1 direction |
None |
| Absorption Spectra |
Not diagnostic |
Not diagnostic |
Not diagnostic |
Not diagnostic |
Not diagnostic |
Not diagnostic |
| UV |
Moderate to strong, pinkish orange (SW) |
Inert to moderate orange, (LW) Inert to weak orange, (SW) |
Occasionally, weak green (LW) Moderate to strong chalky or greenish blue, (SW) |
Natural: Inert to moderate red to orange (LW & SW)Synthetic:
inert to weak, bluish white (SW) |
Not diagnostic |
Not diagnostic |
Girdle
Surface |
Frosted or polished |
Frosted or polished |
Frosted or polished |
Frosted or polished |
Frosted or polished |
Frosted or polished |
Facet
Junctions |
Slightly rounded |
Sharp or slightly rounded |
Sharp or slightly rounded |
Sharp or slightly rounded |
Sharp or slightly rounded |
Rounded |
Electrical
Test |
None |
None |
None |
None |
None |
None |
Thermal
Test |
"Simulant" |
"Simulant" |
"Simulant" |
"Simulant" |
"Simulant" |
"Simulant" |
| Inclusions |
Gas bubbles |
Gas bubbles, curved striae |
Gas bubbles |
Natural: Silk, crystals, fingerprint, hexagonal banding. Synthetic: bubbles, curved striae, flux |
2 & 3 phase |
Bubbles, swirl lines, concave facets |
|
Gemstone Size Chart
| Rounds |  |
Squares |  |
Ovals |  |
| Size | Weight | Size | Weight | Size | Weight |
| 1.6 mm | .02 carat | 5 mm | .75 carat | 5 x 3 mm | .25 carat |
| 2 mm | .03 carat | 6 mm | 1.3 carat | 6 x 4 mm | .5 carat |
| 2.5 mm | .06 carat | 7 mm | 2.05 carat | 7 x 5 mm | 1.0 carat |
| 3 mm | .10 carat | 8 mm | 2.9 carat | 8 x 6 mm | 1.5 carat |
| 3.5 mm | .16 carat | 9 mm | 4.4 carat | 9 x 7 mm | 2.5 carat |
| 4 mm | .25 carat | 10 mm | 6.0 carat | 10 x 8 mm | 3.0 carat |
| 4.5 mm | .33 carat | 11 mm | 8.0 carat | 11 x 9 mm | 4.0 carat |
| 5 mm | .50 carat | 12 mm | 10.35 carat | 12 x 10 mm | 5.0 carat |
| 5.5 mm | .65 carat | 13 mm | 13.2 carat | 14 x 10 mm | 6.0 carat |
| 6 mm | .75 carat | 14 mm | 16.5 carat | 14 x 12 mm | 8.0 carat |
| 6.5 mm | 1.0 carat | 15 mm | 20.25 carat | 16 x 12 mm | 10.5 carat |
| 7 mm | 1.25 carat | 16 mm | 24.6 carat | 18 x 13 mm | 14.2 carat |
| 8 mm | 2.0 carat | | | 20 x 15 mm | 20.3 carat |
| 9 mm | 2.75 carat | | | 22 x 15 mm | 23.5 carat |
| 10 mm | 3.5 carat | | | 23 x 17 mm | 32.2 carat |
| 11 mm | 4.6 carat | | | 25 x 18 mm | 43.0 carat |
| 12 mm | 6.0 carat | | | 27 x 20 mm | 58.5 carat |
| 13 mm | 7.75 carat | | | 30 x 22 mm | 79.6 carat |
| 14 mm | 9.65 carat |
| 15 mm | 11.85 carat |
| 16 mm | 14.35 carat |
| 17 mm | 17.25 carat |
| 18 mm | 20.5 carat |
| 19 mm | 24.0 carat |
| 20 mm | 28.0 carat |
| 21 mm | 34.8 carat |
| 22 mm | 41.8 carat |
| 23 mm | 49.8 carat |
| 24 mm | 57.9 carat |
| 25 mm | 68.7 carat |
| Emerald |  |
Pear |  |
Marquis |  |
| 6 x 4 mm | .5 carat | 6 x 5 mm | .7 carat | 4 x 2 mm | .10 carat |
| 7 x 5 mm | 1.0 carat | 7 x 5 mm | .75 carat | 5 x 2.5 mm | .25 carat |
| 8 x 6 mm | 1.5 carat | 8 x 5 mm | 1.0 carat | 6 x 3 mm | .30 carat |
| 9 x 7 mm | 2.5 carat | 9 x 6 mm | 1.5 carat | 8 x 4 mm | .75 carat |
| 10 x 8 mm | 3.0 carat | 10 x 7 mm | 2.0 carat | 10 x 5 mm | 1.0 carat |
| 11 x 9 mm | 4.0 carat | 11 x 7 mm | 2.25 carat | 12 x 6 mm | 2.0 carat |
| 12 x 10 mm | 5.0 carat | 12 x 8 mm | 3.0 carat | 14 x 7 mm | 3.0 carat |
| 14 x 10 mm | 6.0 carat | 13 x 9 mm | 3.5 carat | 16 x 8 mm | 4.0 carat |
| 14 x 12 mm | 8.0 carat | 15 x 10 mm | 5.5 carat | 18 x 9 mm | 6.0 carat |
| 16 x 12 mm | 10.5 carat | 16 x 12 mm | 8.6 carat | 20 x 10 mm | 8.5 carat |
| 18 x 13 mm | 14.2 carat | 18 x 13 mm | 12 carat |
| 20 x 15 mm | 20.3 carat | 20 x 15 mm | 17.3 carat |
| 25 x 18 mm | 52.2 carat | 22 x 15 mm | 18.7 carat |
| | 25 x 18 mm | 30.6 carat |
| | 30 x 22 mm | 54.5 carat | |
Center-fused Color Treated Gemstones
The treatment is done in two steps. First, a layer of
diffusion treatment color is applied to a piece of colorless
rough. A second piece is then fused to the colored piece
using high temperature and high pressure, (HTHP.) This
leaves the color layer on the girdle plane.
The end result is a single stone with extraordinary color. Unlike surface treated
gems, the color will not scratch off and is unaffected by chemicals or the heat
of a torch.
Since this technique is so different, many people are confused as to how they
should be classified. Yes, they involve multiple techniques, but they are simply
classed as an assembled stone.
Identification
The most notable feature of the center fused gems is the color. Not knowing the
source, the blue green could be confused with Paraiba tourmaline, the red and
orange with cherry opals, etc. However, a standard examination will quickly tell
you that the material is either quartz or topaz.
The refractive index, optic sign, and specific gravity are identical to other
quartz or topaz. However, since these are created with natural gem material,
identification by inclusions can be tricky. The center fused gems are cut from
very clean material, but they do show natural inclusions in the microscope.
The keys to identifying center-fused gems are found with a loupe. The most visible
feature is what at first looks like a fingerprint inclusion. This is best seen
under the girdle, as it is difficult to see from the crown. With care, you can
see that it is actually just visible where light is striking it. If you move
the gem in relationship to the light source, the fingerprint will move as well
and it is always parallel to the girdle plane.
With higher magnification, you can tell that it is a series of small bubbles
in a plane under the color layer. The bubbles could lead one to believe it is
a synthetic, but again these are made from natural gem materials and are properly
classed as an assembled stone.
The final identifying feature is found on the girdle. The color line is distinct
even in air; you do not need immersion as you would with a glued doublet. It
also has significant thickness, about .1 millimeter. This and the movable "fingerprint" are
easy ways to distinguish them from glued doublets. Natural inclusions reinforce
this observation. |
Weights and Measures Conversion Chart
| 1" = 25.4 mm | 1 mm = .039" |
| Carats | Grams | Kilograms | Ounces | Pounds |
| Carats | 0 | 0.2 | 0.0002 | 0.0071 | 0.00044 |
| Grams | 5 | 0 | 0.001 | 0.0353 | 0.0022 |
| Kilograms | 5,000 | 1,000 | 0 | 353 | 2.2 |
| Ounces | 141.75 | 28.3 | .0028300 | 0 | 0.0625 |
| Pounds | 2,267.95 | 453.59 | 0.4545455 | 16 | 0 |
|
| |
Gem Structure Chart
| Structure |
Crystal axes and Angles |
Optic Character |
Refractive Indexes |
Optic Sign |
Pleochroism |
Examples |
| Amorphous |
No order
No axes |
Isotropic
Singly refractive |
1 RI |
None |
None |
Opal, Amber, Glass, Plastic |
| Isometric |
1 axis length
All at 90º |
Isotropic
Singly refractive |
1 RI |
None |
None |
Diamond, Spinel, Garnet |
| Tetragonal |
2 axis lengths
All at 90º |
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive |
2 RI's |
Uniaxial
|
May be dichroic |
Zircon |
| Hexagonal |
2 axis lengths |
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive |
2 RI's |
Uniaxial |
May be dichroic |
Quartz, Beryl, Apatite, Corundum, Tourmaline |
| Orthorhombic |
3 axis lengths
All at 90º |
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive |
3 RI's |
Biaxial
|
May be trichroic |
Topaz, Zoisite, Peridot |
| Monoclinic |
3 axis lengths
2 axes at 90º; 1 oblique |
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive |
3 RI's |
Biaxial |
May be trichroic |
Orthoclase, Spodumene |
| Triclinic |
3 axis lengths
all axes oblique |
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive |
3 RI's |
Biaxial |
May be trichroic |
Labradorite, Axenite |
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