Gem Stones

Colored Stones
Center-fused Color Treated Gemstones
Earlier this year a new gem treatment was introduced. Developed by Sithy Gems and Lapidary, (www.supergreentopaz.slt.lk,) in Sri Lanka, it is a new twist on enhanced gems. They call it center-fused color treatment, which at first sounds confusing. However, a little knowledge and it becomes simple.

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Gems

gem stonesPurpose: Mass produced gem settings come in standard sizes. If a gem won't fit in a standard setting, one needs to be custom made. This involves much more labor and therefore expense.
Bear this in mind when purchasing a gem, or selecting a cut for a gem. There are circumstances where the value of a stone makes it worth cutting for maximum yield, then later paying for a custom made setting. In other circumstances, the cost of a custom setting isn't justified by the value of the gemstone.

Sizes: A gem does not need to be the precise size of the setting. A skilled metal smith can modify a setting to accommodate a wide variety of gem sizes.
Any round gem can be put in a standard setting. On other shapes there are a variety of factors to be considered. As a general rule, gems under one carat can be within .1 mm of the setting size. Over one carat, a .2 mm variance can usually be accommodated and sometimes more.

Weights: The weights given are for diamonds cut to ideal proportions. Colored stones are usually cut with greater volume than diamonds, hence they will weigh more than the chart sizes.
The density of the material will also affect the weight. For example a 6.5 mm round diamond, sapphire and opal, all cut in the same proportions will all weigh different. The diamond, (with a specific gravity of 3.52,) will weigh 1 carat. A sapphire, (specific gravity 4,) will weigh 1.14 carats. The opal, (specific gravity 2.15) will only weigh .61 carats.
There are subtle variations to this list. For example, some list a .25 carat diamond as measuring 4.1 mm. The point is not to take these figures too literally, but to use them as a starting point for estimating weights.

Diamond and Simulant Comparison Chart
Properties GGG YAG Synthetic Spinel* White Sapphires White Topaz Glass
RI 1.970 - 2.03 1.823 - 1.843 1.720 - 1.740 1.757 - 1.779 1.609 - 1.637 1.40 - 1.70
Birefringence None None None .008 - .010 .008 - .010 None
Dispersion .038 - .045 .028 .020 .018 .014 .009 - .098
Optic Character Isotropic Isotropic Isotropic Uniaxial - Biaxial + Amorphous
Pleochroism None None None None if totally colorless None if totally colorless None
Read
Through
Moderate Strong Strong Strong Strong Strong
Luster Vitreous to subadamantine Vitreous to subadamantine Vitreous to subadamantine Vitreous to subadamantine Vitreous Vitreous
SG 7.01 - 7.15 4.50 - 4.60 3.52 - 3.67 3.90 - 4.10 3.49 - 3.57 2.30 - 4.50
Hardness 6.5 - 7 8.25 - 8.5 7.5 - 8 9 8 5 - 6
Cleavage None None None None Perfect, 1 direction None
Absorption Spectra Not diagnostic Not diagnostic Not diagnostic Not diagnostic Not diagnostic Not diagnostic
UV Moderate to strong, pinkish orange (SW) Inert to moderate orange, (LW) Inert to weak orange, (SW) Occasionally, weak green (LW) Moderate to strong chalky or greenish blue, (SW) Natural: Inert to moderate red to orange (LW & SW)Synthetic: inert to weak, bluish white (SW) Not diagnostic Not diagnostic
Girdle
Surface
Frosted or polished Frosted or polished Frosted or polished Frosted or polished Frosted or polished Frosted or polished
Facet
Junctions
Slightly rounded Sharp or slightly rounded Sharp or slightly rounded Sharp or slightly rounded Sharp or slightly rounded Rounded
Electrical
Test
None None None None None None
Thermal
Test
"Simulant" "Simulant" "Simulant" "Simulant" "Simulant" "Simulant"
Inclusions Gas bubbles Gas bubbles, curved striae Gas bubbles Natural: Silk, crystals, fingerprint, hexagonal banding. Synthetic: bubbles, curved striae, flux 2 & 3 phase Bubbles, swirl lines, concave facets
Gemstone Size Chart
Rounds Squares Ovals
Size Weight Size Weight Size Weight
1.6 mm .02 carat 5 mm .75 carat 5 x 3 mm .25 carat
2 mm .03 carat 6 mm 1.3 carat 6 x 4 mm .5 carat
2.5 mm .06 carat 7 mm 2.05 carat7 x 5 mm 1.0 carat
3 mm .10 carat 8 mm 2.9 carat8 x 6 mm 1.5 carat
3.5 mm .16 carat 9 mm 4.4 carat9 x 7 mm 2.5 carat
4 mm .25 carat 10 mm 6.0 carat10 x 8 mm 3.0 carat
4.5 mm .33 carat 11 mm 8.0 carat11 x 9 mm 4.0 carat
5 mm .50 carat 12 mm 10.35 carat12 x 10 mm 5.0 carat
5.5 mm .65 carat 13 mm 13.2 carat14 x 10 mm 6.0 carat
6 mm .75 carat 14 mm 16.5 carat14 x 12 mm 8.0 carat
6.5 mm 1.0 carat 15 mm 20.25 carat16 x 12 mm 10.5 carat
7 mm 1.25 carat 16 mm 24.6 carat18 x 13 mm 14.2 carat
8 mm 2.0 carat 20 x 15 mm 20.3 carat
9 mm 2.75 carat 22 x 15 mm 23.5 carat
10 mm 3.5 carat 23 x 17 mm 32.2 carat
11 mm 4.6 carat 25 x 18 mm 43.0 carat
12 mm 6.0 carat 27 x 20 mm 58.5 carat
13 mm 7.75 carat 30 x 22 mm 79.6 carat
14 mm 9.65 carat
15 mm 11.85 carat
16 mm 14.35 carat
17 mm 17.25 carat
18 mm 20.5 carat
19 mm 24.0 carat
20 mm 28.0 carat
21 mm 34.8 carat
22 mm 41.8 carat
23 mm 49.8 carat
24 mm 57.9 carat
25 mm 68.7 carat
Emerald Pear Marquis
6 x 4 mm .5 carat 6 x 5 mm .7 carat4 x 2 mm .10 carat
7 x 5 mm 1.0 carat7 x 5 mm .75 carat5 x 2.5 mm .25 carat
8 x 6 mm 1.5 carat8 x 5 mm 1.0 carat6 x 3 mm .30 carat
9 x 7 mm 2.5 carat9 x 6 mm 1.5 carat8 x 4 mm .75 carat
10 x 8 mm 3.0 carat10 x 7 mm 2.0 carat10 x 5 mm 1.0 carat
11 x 9 mm 4.0 carat11 x 7 mm 2.25 carat12 x 6 mm 2.0 carat
12 x 10 mm 5.0 carat12 x 8 mm 3.0 carat14 x 7 mm 3.0 carat
14 x 10 mm 6.0 carat13 x 9 mm 3.5 carat16 x 8 mm 4.0 carat
14 x 12 mm 8.0 carat15 x 10 mm 5.5 carat18 x 9 mm 6.0 carat
16 x 12 mm 10.5 carat16 x 12 mm 8.6 carat20 x 10 mm 8.5 carat
18 x 13 mm 14.2 carat18 x 13 mm 12 carat
20 x 15 mm 20.3 carat20 x 15 mm 17.3 carat
25 x 18 mm 52.2 carat22 x 15 mm 18.7 carat
25 x 18 mm 30.6 carat
30 x 22 mm 54.5 carat
Center-fused Color Treated Gemstones
The treatment is done in two steps. First, a layer of diffusion treatment color is applied to a piece of colorless rough. A second piece is then fused to the colored piece using high temperature and high pressure, (HTHP.) This leaves the color layer on the girdle plane.
The end result is a single stone with extraordinary color. Unlike surface treated gems, the color will not scratch off and is unaffected by chemicals or the heat of a torch.
Since this technique is so different, many people are confused as to how they should be classified. Yes, they involve multiple techniques, but they are simply classed as an assembled stone
.
Identification
The most notable feature of the center fused gems is the color. Not knowing the source, the blue green could be confused with Paraiba tourmaline, the red and orange with cherry opals, etc. However, a standard examination will quickly tell you that the material is either quartz or topaz.
The refractive index, optic sign, and specific gravity are identical to other quartz or topaz. However, since these are created with natural gem material, identification by inclusions can be tricky. The center fused gems are cut from very clean material, but they do show natural inclusions in the microscope.
The keys to identifying center-fused gems are found with a loupe. The most visible feature is what at first looks like a fingerprint inclusion. This is best seen under the girdle, as it is difficult to see from the crown. With care, you can see that it is actually just visible where light is striking it. If you move the gem in relationship to the light source, the fingerprint will move as well and it is always parallel to the girdle plane.
With higher magnification, you can tell that it is a series of small bubbles in a plane under the color layer. The bubbles could lead one to believe it is a synthetic, but again these are made from natural gem materials and are properly classed as an assembled stone.
The final identifying feature is found on the girdle. The color line is distinct even in air; you do not need immersion as you would with a glued doublet. It also has significant thickness, about .1 millimeter. This and the movable "fingerprint" are easy ways to distinguish them from glued doublets. Natural inclusions reinforce this observation.
Weights and Measures Conversion Chart
1" = 25.4 mm 1 mm = .039"
Carats Grams Kilograms Ounces Pounds
Carats 0 0.2 0.0002 0.0071 0.00044
Grams 5 0 0.001 0.0353 0.0022
Kilograms 5,000 1,000 0 353 2.2
Ounces 141.75 28.3 .0028300 0 0.0625
Pounds 2,267.95 453.59 0.4545455 16 0
 
Gem Structure Chart
Structure Crystal axes and Angles Optic Character Refractive Indexes Optic Sign Pleochroism Examples
Amorphous No order
No axes
Isotropic
Singly refractive
1 RI None None Opal, Amber, Glass, Plastic
Isometric 1 axis length
All at 90º
Isotropic
Singly refractive
1 RI None None Diamond, Spinel, Garnet
Tetragonal 2 axis lengths
All at 90º
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive
2 RI's Uniaxial May be dichroic Zircon
Hexagonal 2 axis lengths Anisotropic
Doubly refractive
2 RI's Uniaxial May be dichroic Quartz, Beryl, Apatite, Corundum, Tourmaline
Orthorhombic 3 axis lengths
All at 90º
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive
3 RI's Biaxial May be trichroic Topaz, Zoisite, Peridot
Monoclinic 3 axis lengths
2 axes at 90º; 1 oblique
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive
3 RI's Biaxial May be trichroic Orthoclase, Spodumene
Triclinic 3 axis lengths
all axes oblique
Anisotropic
Doubly refractive
3 RI's Biaxial May be trichroic Labradorite, Axenite